Not another travel Blog

...active led me here, to Fushimi-Taisha. This is again a shrine, but one that was up a mountain lined with 30`000 tori gates. Plus it was dedicated to the gods of sake and rice. It was a good change of pace and once you hit the halfway point and people opt to take the opportunity to go down the smaller route. You get a chance for a bit of solitude, a bit of time away from the endless crowds. I did bump into one old couple who started chatting away to me, asking where i was from and where i was going, and after asking for a picture with me, i pushed on to reach the summit.

The route is broken up with these little shrines that mostly consist of stone foxes with little red bibs on, foxes are believed to have the power to possess humans in Japanese mythology, so there was something kind of creepy walking through them with no-one else around. I finished far earlier than i thought i would. I was expecting it to take most the day but by 1\2ish i was down and ready to head back. I was thinking of heading to the imperial palace parks and relax there. Which incidentally is where i`m writing this now. But as i was half way to Nara already and pretty much had an entire day left, i got off the train heading back to Kyoto and 5 mins later was going back the way i came and onto Nara. God i love the JR railways and this pass.

Ok, it`s taken a little while but it feels like i`ve got the hang of this travelling malarkey now. Tokyo i went at the place full speed, and it took 2 days in Nikko to rest up, and kyoto, 4 days in seems to hit the right kinda pace somewhere between the two.
The first day resulted in my first planning error, as on arrival i was told i wasn`t meant to check in till the 28th, a day later.....Craaap! The guy suggested another place down the road "the budget inn" not the most faith restoring of names but it was 2 mins walk and the same price, he also rang and booked it for me etc and the night was fine, no panick.
Kyoto seems big, feels even more so than Tokyo without the massive underground, but i knew i had a long time here and this time was going to take it at a slightly more relaxed pace. The major, or really just the most popular area of attractions seem to be in southern Higashiyma, mainly for the temple `Kiyomizu-Dera` but there`s a stream of impressive sights and shrines in the surrounding area as well. In order not to miss anything i followed a walking guide from lonely planet. I usually hate doing that, i don`t like the idea of walking the exact footsteps of someone whose done it all before, just loses the chance of surprise, but at the same time it took me to places i would of sure to of missed without it and had a nice chilled day. God knows what i did that night, i`m checking my camera...crap it`s on the other card. Lets just say nothing. On to the next day!
The weather so far, since arriving in London, has on the whole been amazing but as i arrived to kinkakuji (more commonly known as the golden temple, for reasons kind of obvious) the sky was a horrible grey and the humidity was unbearable. The temples cool, i mean it looks nice, but your only view point is from across the pond and i`ve seen that photo 100`s of times researching the trip and i don`t think you get anything extra from being there in person, or maybe it was just the weather making it look less impressive than it is



A short walk down the road close to the entrance to Ryoan-ji and the heavens opened, first time to feel rain in months and it bucketed it down. I`d just got to the temple and to shelter as it started to come down heavier but was pleasantly surprised to read from my book that this place, which is counted as the nicest of zen gardens in japan is best seen when raining (silver lining and all that) I sat for a good hour waiting for the rain to stop, with my legs dangling over the edge. It`s not like i had a moment of Epiphany but i came out feeling pretty good about myself and back to a blue sky and sunshine. The road then bends round to ninna-ji, which again is covered in temples, shrines and gardens. You could honestly be anywhere in Kyoto and be within a stone throw from any number of world heritage sites. At the night (i`m back on this camera card now) i went for an overly pretentious sake drinking tasting session with two sisters from the hostel, it was a good laugh actually.. despite the guys analytical ways. We got a tad drunk and learnt a little in the process.
By day 3 i was wanting to do something further a field, i`d done a fair amount of slow, quiet, shoeless walking and now fancied something a little bit more active.....

Nikko's a little place north of Tokyo, it was once a place were Japanese high rollers pumped loads of money into lavish shrines and memorial temples etc, it's now a national park and world heritage site. I'd just done 4 busy days in Tokyo and I'm thinking Kyoto is going to be equally busy so nikko was me having a two day rest, travellings hard u know, lol! The little lodge I was staying in is super sweet, there's a big fire in the main section, a yoga room for morning exercises and cosy rooms. I had no-one on the bed above me and a friendly Canadian couple who had moved to japan a few months back in the bed opposite.

The day I got here, after an almost vertical uphill climb with my bag, my body didn't want to do anything but grab a can of asashi (asashi seems to be japans carling) and sit out enjoying the clean air, something Tokyo may be somewhat lacking. The temperature just that little bit more northern was far cooler and I can't believe I'm saying it but it nice to be a little bit cold. I'd been sweating since the beginning of august and now I was considering putting a jacket on. I got to bed at 9.15 about the earliest I have done since maybe turning 16. I didn't even need an alarm to be up for 7.



Shrine time; I picked a fairly non-strenuous walk for my day, probably about 10-12k so that it encompassed the main shrines and also the disappearing monks.
The first thing i hit was the sacred bridge 'shin-kyo' which leads you towards the first of the temples. It goes on for quite a bit, exquisite temple after another. I got there one of the first and had the place to myself, for quite a while. It made a world of difference being able to walk around with no queues or crowds of people taking photos.
The disappearing monks are these fellas below, called jizo statues, protectors of travellers. Their thing is if you were to count them one way, then the number would be different on the return route, hence the disappearing thing. I lost count mid way the first walk so I can't say either way.



Seeing as nikko was my treat away from the cities, I also had my first proper sit down meal. A place called 'hippari dako' recommended from lonely planet, it was amazing, I had pork balls and chicken tareyaki with noodles and rice. My body had gotten used to my own cooking and microwaved meals so I think it came as a shock to the system. I'd also gone over on my ankle by this point, nothing bad but thought it best to go back and rest. It was so nice taking my backpack off and not seeing a sweat outline where I once had it rested. So after another clean shave, which I'm starting to get used to, I settled down to watch some BBC world in possibly the most relaxed state since setting off. Another early night and I was back to my best again.

I've just seen a bullet train go flying past, shit they go quick. I'll be on my way to Kyoto shortly.

This day was ridiculously packed, i'd quickly realized chatting to people and reading up in a few of the hostels books there was no way i was going to see all i wanted to in 4 days. I'd done the fish market and imperial palace but still wanted to look around Shibuya, Shinjuku, Harajuku (which are all fairly close together) Akibara, Rippongi, Tokyo bay, ginza, and so on. I'd said originally i wasn't going to rush any one place, preferring to see less but more of it. Yet everything here was so intriguing i decided i'd go against my own rule and just see how much i could see in the one day. It was a Sunday so it's the main cos-play day in Harajuku, plus there's loads to see and do in the surrounding areas. I thought a start there would be as good as any. I got there to find an empty bridge, obviously cos-players aren't as eager as i was to get out of bed on Sunday morning. No worries the garden that it leads across to is incredible. I got to see a little Japanese wedding and morning prayers, i also wrote a best wishes wooden plak for Joni back home as i missed his birthday and hung it on one these giant trees.
By the time i'd done all that the bridge had begun to gather a crowd, not as many as i hoped but i'd also found out that the kids were back to school that monday and so quite a few would probably be leaving it :( i did get to see the worlds politest punk band though. Dressed in overly cliched punk outfits, they screamed through song after song and in between bowed, smiled and said thank you. Not quite the 'f*** the world' attitude expected, but entertaining never the less. Around the corner the path leads you into the park where all the high quiffed Elvis dancing groups hung around. God knows how they must have their hair during the week as some of them were comically big. They were just out enjoying themselves i think irrespective of whether we were there or not. The park itself tops the list as being the busiest, happiest park i've ever visited. Everyone in there was doing something, not like at home where u get a few kids scrapping and and the others sit in the corner drinking strongbow. Everyone was either skipping, throwing frisbees, practising theater shows, couples were juggling to one another or hula hooping. Loads of people were playing all types of instruments or singing in groups. No-one was doing it for money, just purely to entertain themselves. A girl ran over at one point and dragged me into this massive skipping line thing. It was just amazing to see everyone so busy as a means to relax. Towards the end of the park was this b-boy festival going on. It was free to walk in, they had loads of food stalls, break dancing competitions, a MC stand, Mixing tent. Like i said Tokyo is just busy, i'd planned so much for today and yet finally when i dragged myself away from here half the day had gone. I decided i'd pop over to Shibuya as that was close, so i got my move on and left only to be distracted at the bridge by more cos play people.

The main reason for wanting to visit Shibuya was 'guiltally' the crossing you see in near enough all guidebooks and films based in the city....and for anyone laughing that i went all them miles to see a zebra crossing, well it was ace. End of that, and on to Shinjuku.



The sun was starting to set by now, so really i'd just managed to time the day right. Shinjuku is good for two things; shopping and the neon lights, and seeing as i was on a budget shopping would be a bad idea.
I started to make my way over to the government offices as you're allowed to ride the elevator to the 42nd floor, but i had no idea what time it stopped running and as it was unlikely i'd return here before leaving i got my skates on. The View from here was quality, they say during the day in good weather you can see mt Fuji from the south viewing station..



That was it, my feet were killing now, i was horribly sweaty (god help whoever was sitting next to me on the metro ride home, and my eyes were having difficulty keeping open. On the return to the hostel, i saw Viktoria and a bunch of Manchester lads, 2 of which i'd met the other day, having a drink. You could tell by the way they were dressed they were obviously off out and by the types of lads these were, I knew I'd end up following.. "you coming karoke? It's that one from lost in translation!" "I don't know, I'm an awful singer, and i had a bad experience in Amsterdam" "no worries none of us are". As anyone who knows me, also knows it doesn't take alot for me to change my mind, so I popped to the nearest 7-11, bought a few cans and got up to speed, popped on a different top and was done. Ready for a night out.
I think everyone woke up the next day in a near life threatening state, but there was no rest, we'd decided to go see mt fuji at like half 10. God knows how we dragged our lazy drunken arses out of bed but we did and after pratically racing to the station found out it was booked up for the day. To think I could of stayed in bed, lol, oh well at least I had the day to go explore Tokyo some more. Fuji can come later. There's a section on the metro that leads to Tokyo bay, it's made from reclaimed land and is easily one of the quirkist places I could ever imagine. There was a sort of art instalation piece in the shape of a life size gundam model. I mean I love these things when there like 30 cm big. Seeing one this big was like a life achievement ticked off. Saying that I did keep staring at it hoping it'd start walking on it's own accord, you know like the statue of liberty does in ghost busters *spoiler, sorry!





Next door to this, well 5 mins walk was the sega amusement building, joypolis, a muscle park amusement, a 9 storey mall and a Market called decks 'oh there was also a huge ferris wheel that could be seen a short distance away. Seriously it's the sort of place 10 year olds go to in their dreams. I bumped into 2 of Victorias friends in the sega place and she gave me a little plush toy of stich, as from 'lilo and...' so currently I'm walking around like a Japanese schoolgirl with this fuzzy little blue fella sticking his head out of the side of my bag.



I got back mid afternoon, everyone had gone back to the hostel and there beds, and were still asleep! I gotta admit my hangover had passed but tiredness was kicking me in the face everytime I tried to do anything.
So that's where we started these Tokyo posts, since then I've arrived in nikko. But as for the rest of time in Tokyo.... Once they woke we eventually ended up playing cards and finger twister (funnier than it sounds) into the early hours and i ended up agreeing to going akibara with ben in the morning before leaving for nikko. I really should of gone to akibara mid-day at some other point, but the morning would just have to do as I wasn't going to miss it. Computer games have been a massive part of mine and my brothers life it'd just be wrong to not go to the so called gaming meca while I was here. I kept looking for motorstorm, so I could take a picture to send to work, but no luck. There was some awesome arcades though, there's nothing like seeing a 60 year old dude giving this teenager an absolutle tanning on street fighter 2 turbo. For a country so camera happy, their not big on taking photo's in these places, but I did the best I could.

Ok it's been a while since writing in this thing, I've had 4 days in Tokyo and leave for nikko in the morning. It's the first place I really wish I had an extra day at. It's just been soo busy I really haven't stopped. I decided that tonight I'd have a bit of time just relaxing, catch up on washing (clothes washing not 'me' washing) and fill in this entry.
Right so let's start at day one. After arriving on time and somehow figuring the tube system to Asakusa, I was left with the simple job of finding the hostel. Because my flight had been brought forward a day, I'd be staying somewhere for one night and then another for the following 3. I followed this little map to the letter and yet 25 minutes in i hadn't found squat. I asked a few people and they tried to help as much as they could but kept implying that I was quite a way away. I was sure I was in the right area and they just weren't sure where I was asking. I carried on, and asked the next cute girl where I was. She didn't speak a word of English but sort of implied she knew where I meant and that she could help. She then walked for the next 20 minutes, past where i'd started (seems I'd taken the first corner wrong), until I was at the door to my hostel. She smiled, laughed, bowed then left. I wasn't sure whether I'd just asked the right person at the right time. But it's really not, everyone here is like than. Everyone.

I needed to sit by this point, I hadn't the energy to leave the place so i concentrated on the basics, shower, relax, update blog, food, beer... I thought if I got the blog up to date, then I was free to relax for the night. Finally since setting off, the book was at the same point as the blog and even better news is I'd met two Americans to share a beer with, the night was done and I was ready for a first proper day.

At 4 my alarm went (off subject, I love the iPod touch, but why the hell can't you use songs for the alarm tone rather than 'strum' or 'chime' or something else equally annoying?) I was getting up for a visit to the fish Market, that place is insanely busy, I'm surprised it's even allowed. It'd be like letting people freely walk around a working cotton mill and assuming no one would get injured. There's knives everywhere and trolleys and trucks flying around with complete disregard for anything in their path. I mean these people are grafting away to make a living and here I was taking photos thinking it's all great. They must think we're mental.
After the fish Market I darted off to the imperial palace and gardens which, although a little disappointing you can't get very close (the pictures I got really are as close as possible) it was a nice way of spending the afternoon. I got back to the hostel to find this guy giving a 10 minute shiatsu massage experience to anyone willing to give it a go. And although I wasn't envious of him having to touch my soaking wet back I wasn't one to miss out on something free.





I hadn't plans for the night so when some girl came into the room wearing a kimono talking about a festival. I couldn't help but to investigate and wrangle an invite, she's the one in the pictures who looks like Mariah Carey did when she was nice, and less mental. She can also speak 3 languages and is in the process of becoming a doctor.
'Azabu-juban' festival I think it was called, Japanese have festivals seemingly daily. Have a look through the pictures, but it was nice to be around so may people all just enjoying themselves eating and drinking everywhere in sight.

Crap, I forgot to mention i visited the Asakusa temples, they were only 2 mins from our hostel and to say it didn't have too much page space in lonely planet they were stunning. I tied a prayer onto the temples ropes along with the thousands of others and strolled around for quite a while.

First off i think this could be a long one, so just be ready to skim read. I have 11 and a half hours before touching down in Beijing then another 3 hrs 30 till landing in Tokyo. So if i can`t sleep on the move, which i haven`t been able to since setting off for London then i`ll be writing in this.
Flight screen says 5272 miles till landing and although i`m sat on it we`re not taking off for another 25mins due to air traffic.

Ok where to start, i s`pose i better fill in the gap from Madrid to here.

My mood hadn`t got any better on arrival in Madrid and wasted the first hours strolling around the City. I decided i`d just call it a day and just go relax at the hostel and then start again with a better frame of mind the next day. The hostels kitchen was starting to get a bit busy so i thought i`d go get some food to cook then sit in and hope someone would say hello. The second i sat down with my pasta i got called over to join this table who i think had just started on their second bottle of wine which they poured me a glass as well. It`s funny how we didn`t do any group drinking when the three of us were together and yet when you`re on your own every solo traveller seems to find one another. Like a moth to light, we are to alcohol. Three bottles down and the kitchen had turned into something of a medieval grand hall, every table and chair had been pushed together, and everyone was passing food back and forth with people having conversations all over the show, the 4 had turned to 8 and then 8 into about 12 or so. It was a good cure to the days mood.
A few had decided they were going watching this flamenco dancing at a local bar and Tim, this Australian i`d befriended wouldn`t allow me to bail so in no time at all i was changed and ready to go out. The show was actually really cool, it wasn`t some horrible tourist trap that you get alot of, it was local people watching proper dancing in this tiny, sweaty, downstairs bar. I think with the exception of us i couldn`t point out another tourist which was nice.

One of the people in our group named lael (think it`s spelt like that) started chatting and we decided to go for a quieter drink as everyone else was going getting ruined. I had the flight and a lack of Euros, i wasn`t just going soft. She was from L.A and quickly dispelled all American stereotypes by being more interesting and intelligent than anything i could say. It was a nice way to end the night to a day that a few hours before i had completely written off. So after being chucked out of a few bars for closing time we called it a night and went back to the hostel.

Back to now, Planes about to set off, i`ve never been on a long haul flight so having my own little screen which is showing the take off is amusing me to bits, i`m like a big kid playing with everything that`s able to be messed with....this thing better hurry up though as my adjoining flight is only a hour and a half after this is meant to land and we`re currently running almost an hour late.

Oh and i know it`s off subject but all planes should have soundproofed cubicles that babies can be chucked in as soon as they start crying.

I woke in the morning and grabbed some sugar puffs from the kitchen, hadn`t had sugar puffs since i was a kid... there like the crack of the cereal world so after another 4 bowls i went to get my tube to the airport.... That`s it really, now i`m here. The moodiness from the other day has gone i think and as long as i get that connecting flight to Narita airport i`ll be in Tokyo, checking into my hostel, around 15 hours from now.


Shit, completely forgot, when i was on my travel to get food back in Madrid i walked passed a hairdresser that said "unisex haircut, 7 euros". I thought the day couldn`t get any worse at the time, plus i`d need it cutting in the next 4 weeks and japan would be expensive. So i went in and got seated straight away, no appointment, obviously this place was a quality establishment. I went on the explain as best as i could "this but shorter" she took that as her cue to get the clippers and buzzcut a strip on the side of my head and said "this short?" in a way to suggest i could say "no, could i have it a bit longer on the bit YOU JUST SHAVED OFF" she went around the rest of the sides then took a few chucks out the top with scissors. Then she took me to have it rinsed and while doing so showed me this bottle that i thought was shampoo so i just said yes and she carried on washing. Then after she blow dried it she took this bottle and started applying it into my hair. It was wet look gel, and she was trying to shape it by slicking it back. I came out looking like a Russian mafia mobster, i had to laugh, then obviously wash it out as soon as i possibly could.

Back to the flight, i`m 8 hours in now (no i haven`t been writing constantly) and officially the furthest away from home than i`d ever been, Air China have been amazing, i`ve had 4 beers, a small bottle of wine and 2 meals to no extra cost. I`m guessing that`s the norm for these types of flights but for the price i paid i was expecting to be flying with cattle. So far i`ve watched Bee movie, Meh! Lost in translation which i already loved, Charlie Wilson's war which i really enjoyed and am now watching catch me if u can. I know i`m rambling on but i`m bored out of my tree, someone needs to hurry up with that teleportation technology, wish i had a sleeping pill or even a bottle of vodka, both do the same thing for me


OK another quick update, i`ve really got nothing better to do, but i`m on the japan flight now, Beijings airport is amazing by the way. I hope when i inevitably get stuck at an airport overnight that it`s as clean and nice as there. 1708 miles to go, which sounds a tad far but whatever i`m gonna try and get some sleep as by the time i get to bed in japan it`ll effectively be 2 days since i will of last slept.

The departure from 3 to one has been harder than i thought. My heads a bit all over the show at the moment, i just left my rucksack on the train for a moment, not my day pack but my actual 12 kg big backpack. I bought a croissant and a bottle of water during the interchange at Valencia, headphones on, no speaking. It feels like the funs been sucked out of everything at the moment. Now i`ve got a 4 hour train journey feeling like crap.

Ok that`s the last of the moaning i had a really good 3 weeks, from the first drinks at the Colosseum to chilling on the rocks in Cinque terre and finally chilling at Merv`s. I`ve been planning this trip as a solo thing for over a year and been thinking about it for the last few. I`ve no reason to complain.

I`ve just got on the train still in a bit of a mood and while checking tickets walked directly into a signpost, it was like a Marx brothers clip, had to laugh though as i`d been doing it all week and Sam seems to find people walking and tripping over things funnier than anyone else i`ve ever known.

Skip back 5 days, after our park trip in Valencia, we were on our way to Merv`s place for a chill out and a chance to shower. The place was really nice, cold beers in the fridge and the prospect of drinking and eating cheaply for the next few days. I didn`t take many pictures as you can tell but i know my trigger fingers going to go into overdrive as soon as i hit Japan so i took things slowly. After anally unpacking everything, washing it all and charging all my battery's. Then meticulously repacking everything. It also gave me a chance to have my first clean shave, which i haven`t done since i was able to grow stubble properly. It felt nice, i had clean clothes, clean underwear and no face fuzz. I looked awful mind, hobo-chic is all i can really do and everything else looks like a disaster.
I sat and relaxed reading Ewan McGregor/Charley Boorman`s long way round book which i`d found on the bookshelf. Definitely going to be doing my beginners bike license when i get back, i`ve been saying it for a while but that`s just put an extra explanation mark on it as something to do. I can say that with no fear now seeing as i`m miles away, and out of firing range from my mum.

The days flew, it`s amazing how times manges to go so fast when you re doing nothing, before i knew it i was here on my way to Madrid still feeling slightly sick about the transition. bo-ho...

I'd spent the last 3 weeks in the pocket of them 2 and now as i pull away from Gandia Station it feels like i've left a massive part of my home life at that platform. Apart from a moment at work when i nearly went, this was the first time emotion kinda got the better of me. Obviously not to there faces, that would of resulted in years of ridicule but i just stared out the window speeding towards Valencia finding it hard to hold back the tears. At work i was in a rush, i still had things to do, your head doesn't have to deal with it, now i've got no option but to sit here and think of the things/people i´ll miss.
I wanted this to sound like a thank you post but i fear it'll end up sounding like a teenage love letter so i'll keep it short, Basically thanks to everyone reading this, thanks to Mervin for putting us up and a massive thanks to Sam and Lance for not only putting up with me but for being two of the best friends i could wish for.
Now it's just me, this book, this pen and single flight out of here!