Dalat

    Saturday, November 21

    This is more like it, on a sleeper bus to Dalat, on a road unsuitable to be called a road, with a high chance of death! Me and Em, one earphone in each listening to Genesis, watching the rock crumple around us as our bus creeps around the cliff edge... but despite the impending death, the views where once again stunning. If Thailand has the beaches, Loas has its tubing, then surely Vietnam has to win on scenery.


    Dalat is high in the hills, there`s not a great deal to see and do there but it was just nice to be back to the real Vietnam. The first day we visited "the crazy house" which to be fair is far cooler than it sounds. It`s part guesthouse, part tourist attraction and was designed by this crazy old woman who sits there selling tickets still to this day. Definitely worth a look, after so many historical things its nice to see something that`s clearly so bonkers.
    The day after and we where back to motorbikes, just a look around the outlying hills but as always when you put a bike in the equation i had an awesome day.

    Off to Kos

    Thursday, November 19

    A quick one this.. Na trang is the Vietnamese party city it seemed, expensive bars (for Vietnam anyway) big beach with sun loungers, lots of drink, bad music and a load of restaurants.

    Ok here`s a summary of my 3 days in Na Trang in as fewer words as possible.... Arrived, checked into hotel, went to the beach, went to a pool, got drunk, fell asleep, woke up, went beach, met up with Liam and Steve, played drinking games, given the new nickname of Dicky Downfast, got drunk, fell asleep, just about woke up, beach, beach party, sleep, bus to Dalat..



    That was really it though, i laughed my ass off and had a whale of a time, but we didn`t explore or anything, it was like being on a lads holiday for a few days, but it wasn`t my reason for initially travelling. Definitely a nice break from temples though i`ve gotta say that.

    In our happiness from the bike ride we`d actually gone for a drink on the night of arrival (actually quite a few drinks) We`d been told of a place that did a home brew for 3000 dong.... and considering one pound is 30`000 the news of this had sent my liver quivering in fear. And rightly so. Before the night was done we had a table of 20 people drinking together and i`d somehow at the mention of it being one of the girls birthdays, that we should have a party, and not just a normal party but a fancy dress party, and on top of that i promised cake. You know, as you do!
    The day after we woke at 1 i think, it took another two hours to face breakfast and then another 2 to rent bikes, and by the time we`d gotten anywhere realised we had to get costumes, get changed and get out by 8. So that left us precisely no time to do anything else. I`ll let facebook tell the story of that night but it went something along the lines of Bar, Bar, Beach, Bar and ended with me with no shorts sat on the rear carriage that a bike was pulling, with just Will, being taken home. I`d somehow managed to keep hold of what was the prop of the night, the helmet to my fancy dress had been grafted by everyone and ended up being worn by the entire crowd and a few sneaky attempts to steal it by some. The following day and i was back to hangover central, it was the best "full on" night out of the trip though so i was less resentful about this one. We did mange to get on bikes and make it to the beach this time though. Oh i also picked up my shirts and shorts, i forgot to mention that! The first day, we all went and got tailor made clothes done. I was thinking a suit but opted for grey tartan shorts and a white shirt.
    That night we donned our new clothes and went out for a couple of sophisticated, happy hour, g & t`s.



    6`o clock and the alarm goes, We`re off to Na Trang tonight, but wanted to do a day trip to My son before leaving. Their considered to be Cambodia's Angkor wot, which after seeing them doesn`t bode well for Cambodia. No that`s harsh they where`t that bad, i think i was probably the biggest supporter of them in the group, but i wasn`t exactly taken aback by them. Will dubbed them quite possibly the worst ruins he`s ever seen, and in his own words "he`s been to turkey". The highlight of the day was actually when my flip flop got washed downstream and then watching Pascal jump in after it, saving it from absolute oblivion.

    One day like this

    Monday, November 16

    In my quest to convince Will to buy a bike with me and ride the coast we decided on at least renting one first, just to see if it was do-able. The strip between Hue and Hoi`an is considered the nicest in all of Vietnam, especially since it was dubbed as the highlight of the top gear episode, i mean i was excited enough just to be getting a bike so to be doing it in what was meant to be such nice scenery, i couldn`t wait.

    10.00 am.. none of us had ever been on bikes before so the first thing to do was learn! We went up and down the street a few times and once everyone felt comfortable set off on the main road.Hues roads aren`t quite Hanoi`s, that place was just mental. That's not to say that these are much safer, you still get people transporting sofas and dining sets of tables and chairs on the back of their bikes. I even saw 5 people on the back of one bike at one point; driver, kid on drivers lap, mum with baby strapped to her front and a kid standing on the back. Anyway we were off, we filled our tanks, we where on highway 01 and heading out of Hue.



    12.00 First proper stop of the day, we`d done a few brief stops before this, buying ties to strap round our head Rambo style, another place for a drink and more bike accessories, but now we`d stopped for a wander on foot at these waterfalls.The biking was amazing by the way, we`d only done flat open city roads by this point but i was enjoying it more than i`ve ever enjoyed anything.....ever.
    There`s no enforced speed limits, there more like just guidelines and the roads where getting quieter so despite the waterfalls being as good as they were i was just excited to get back on the bike.



    3.00 Stopped for dinner at this point, just some fried rice and a drink then back on it... we where coming up to the Hai van mountain pass next which is now possibly the most fun hour of my life. I`d totally gotten comfortable /cocky with the biking at this point, turning into corners, overtaking the sparse traffic. You start to wind up this almost vertical road in the cliff face, before looping round on yourself and revealing the most amazing of views. I didn`t even take many photos which is strange for me as usually it`s pretty high on the priority list, i was just lost in my own mind enjoying things.



    5.00 The sun starts to set quite early here, by 5 we where going over this huge bridge, i was pushing pretty hard to get there before darkness and sun was just dipping out of sight, by half 5 i was flying down the beach front towards Hoi`an.

    6ish It had just gone dark when we came past the marble mountains of Hoi`an, we decided to go up, seeing as we where there, and just reflected over the days events while overlooking our arrived town. By 7 we`d checked into a hotel, dirt covered an exhausted, i`d enjoyed myself so much this day and could of happily continued to Ho Chi Minh...Without doubt the best day of Vietnam, probably the entire trip, quite possibly ever! and officially in love with bikes.

    As i mentioned the first day of weather in Hue was horrible and led to very little being done, bar a bit of drinking and typhoon weather forecast watching, we basically just chilled out at the hotel.

    I had a few friends coming up the next day in the form of Will who i meet in a drunken session in Hanoi and Sally who came to Ha long bay with me, so decided i`d save myself for a proper a night out with them...and after another rubbish day of weather on the following day the night out couldn`t come soon enough.


    The day after and with a mighty hangover we (with the inclusion of emma who had travelled down with Will from Hanoi) rented bikes and went for a whistle stop tour of Hue`s highlights.
    First stop was the tomb of Tu Duc which was pretty cool, he was probably quite a guy back in the day, having one of the largest tombs i`d yet seen with gardens and lakes, he also had over 147 wives and numerous bits on the side, so he seemed like he lived his life on a pretty grand scale.

    The next few nights where spent at the home of a friend of the family. I`d never met them before but it`d been arranged that they`d pick me up from the hostel and show me the way to theirs.
    It was nice to see somewhere outside the very center of the city. Because of our usual time limits with each place you rarely get to see the outskirts of the town. The interest in you as a tourist definitely increases, just a walk to the local university on the first night resulted in being followed my an entourage of young students all wanting to ask questions and practise their English.
    The next day i was taken to the local pottery town (bat Trang) where i was able to meet the people who designed and made some of the products.


    After the second day i had to move on though, it was sad to say bye to Tien and the family, the kids and everyone had made me feel really at home and i`d been fed to the point of bursting but i had a lot of distance to travel before my visa ran out.... i`d planned on riding to Hue from Hanoi, i`d test drove and looked at quite a few bikes but nothing that was reliable looking and cheap enough to go with so decided i`d do a bus to Hue to make up some time and then try to sort something from there.

    Oh man i hate when i get behind like this, my memory is awful trying to think back to anything that i`ve done.
    It`s been a miserable day in `Hue` weather wise, typhoon Mirinae hit the central coast a day before yesterday and the area`s experiencing pretty bad tropical storms, and doesn`t look like letting up anytime soon either.
    Anyway i thought i`d take the opportunity to have an epic catch up of the last 8 or so days.

    Sapa seems ages ago now :S the bus wasn`t that eventful to be honest, we did pass two lorries that had melded into one in what must of been an almighty crash, but ours was the usual uncomfortable, slow, depressing journey that i was expecting.

    I kept away from the tour options for Sapa, i`ve been trying to do more and more on my own recently, so there was only me and one south Korean guy on the bus that where actually backpacking, the rest where locals returning home. I got chatting to him (he`d only started learning English 12 months prior) but we decided we`d save some money and share a room. We ended up with a hotel, free wi-fi, towels, 2 double beds, all for $4 so 2 dollars each. He was a dead nice guy, i can`t remember his name as usual, but he`d spent 21 years learning different forms of martial arts and then the last 6 in the Korean military, so yeah he was hard as nails as well.
    We did a bit of lax walking on the first day, neither of us had slept well and didn`t fancy anything to extreme, we thought we`d save that for the next day. The plan was to go to Cat Cat village, meet the locals, stroll around the rice paddies and then loop back on ourselves and then back to the hotel, and to be fair for the most part we stuck to it. The village was awesome, a few too many tourists which killed it a bit but it was nice to see people getting on with their lives, the rice paddies again were really cool, exactly how you`d imagine them but on a much vaster scale, so It was only on the loop back that things started to go a little off track.
    You see we`d seen village folk crossing this river on this bamboo bridge/ balancing pole and disappearing over the hill. We thought we`d go explore and then just come back at the next turning point. So we went over this one river, then another, then up a small-ish rock face. "Bruce lee" in front of me was springing all over the show over rocks under tree roots, i was just scrambling behind trying to keep up.
    It was nice to feel like i was properly trekking at this point, no paths or signposts... at one point we got to this dried up mudslide which was honestly nearly vertical. He pointed to the top, so i just sorted suggested "sure, lead the way then" It was so slippery trying to get up, by the end i was covered in mud, i`d been using anything for levitation, so my knees elbows and head were caked.
    Eventually we made it though, the view was pretty spectacular and we thought we`d go a little further and try and get right to the very top of this hill.
    The trail of the villagers had gone by this point and we found ourselves climbing round the outside of this tree, until the floor, which looked like it was made up of twigs and branches partly fell through (it`d looked pretty steady before hand) and as we clinged onto the biggest tree branch we could find you could see from the partly broken floor that it was a vertical drop to the bottom of the hill. I was scared s**tless at that and for the first time wondered at what exactly i was covered for on my travel insurance. We slowly creeped back round to were we started and found a different route down, i slid and tumbled the entire length but after hitting the river again we both let out a sigh of relief at what was easily the stupidest thing i`ve done since setting off. Still fun though





    At the night we went out to celebrate not dying with a bottle of herbal wine which was served in a gasoline tank (nice) and just before leaving this little fella in the picture above came over looking a bit lost, i think he was just intrigued by everything, he didn`t ask for any money or beg, he just played hide and seek and laughed at us acting stupid. *I only mention this as i like the picture so much :D

    *Back to Hanoi, wash, shower, drink, drink, err drink, sleep, wake up, off to Ha long bay

    I was quite lucky with our group, i coaxed everyone from our room to join on the same tour.. we`d all had drinks the other night so knew it`d be a good laugh. On the bus alone we went through 2 litres of vodka while meeting the rest of our group and playing card games (ashamedly the drinking seems to of increased considerably since leaving China) Thankfully by the time they let us loose in the kayaks though we`d mostly sobered up (you`ve gotta love their attitude to health and safety over here)
    The bays amazing by the way, in the same way as i was stunned by the great wall, the experience of Ha Long was similar. I could easily of stayed there weeks rather than the few days we did.


    I mean the first morning on the beach at half 5 and that was our view, definitely beats driving in the rain to work (sorry guys) This day we again got in Kayaks, just the two of us this time, and headed off in the direction of these far off islands with the intention to only come back once we`d found something cool. After four hours in pretty much one direction we arrived on this unmanned beach and after a little exploration found this fairly large home and introduced ourselves to the residents. It`s quality when you stumble on things like this, they invited us in and gave us tea and wine, they showed us to the top of this hill on their island and had a little game of football, they even had a go in our kayaks while we swam alongside.
    Even the ride back served to the adventure as after an hour of rowing against the current we were beat and couldn`t continue for another 3 hours. We changed our direction and headed towards this little fishing boat and haggled for a lift, the guy was pretty apprehensive at the first, i think he thought we were kayak pirates and after his belongings, but after alot of pointing and smiling he let us on and before long we where sharing a can of beer and he was letting us steer his boat towards our island, kayaks being towed along behind, it was an awesome end to and awesome day.





    Back to Hanoi!